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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you ever wanted to build your own AR from scratch, but didn't know if you could, or just don't know all of the lingo, here are two links that will let anybody build their own.
Building your own is sometimes the only way some can afford an AR if the budget is tight.
Buy a stripped lower/stripped upper, and then buy the parts as the budget allows. Get a little extra money, buy a nicer barrel, or a handguard that really looks cool, or just build a basic AR for a little over $500 if you pick up parts on sale, or find some good used parts.
Used trigger assembly's are all over the place as folks upgrade to custom triggers. Used bolt carrier groups are in the same boat. People are always upgrading, and they sell the used parts.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

http://www.ar15.com/content/index.html#guides
 

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Awesome! I'll check that out!!
 

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I do, I do. Lookinig at a exploded parts diagram of an AR, it may look like a daunting task to put one together. They really aren't that hard to put together, if you can change the blades and oil on a riding lawn mower, you can build an AR, espically if you buy a pre-built upper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The uppers are not really harder, but are a pain sometimes, and one has to have some special tools. The barrel nuts can be a bugger to get off. I bought one of the AR armorers tools from Brownells. There is good and there is better. Go for the better, it's about $10 difference. The DPMS model will run around $35.
To get the gas ports lined up, it takes quite a bit of Torque sometimes, so an Upper Receiver action block is one thing that is nice to have. They run in the $40 range.
 

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Hey Dennis, what LPG do you like and which seem to have the best "factory" trigger in the LPG?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've converted all of my triggers to the JP models.
You adjust them to what creep, and trigger pressure you want, then
Put some 271 lock-tite on them to lock it in.

Very popular in the AR competition arena, as well as long range, etc.

Everybody has a preference, but mine is 3lbs of trigger pressure. Every thing I own is set to that pressure.
Don't want to sound anal, but
I want consistancy for everything.
 

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Built up my lower this week end with the DPMS LPK and don't have my upper yet. The trigger seems to have a lot of creep, but will know more after the upper get installed, as that does seem to change the way the trigger feels. Now I did opt for the Ergo grip instead of my usual Hogue, whoooie Nellie, I likey a lot! And the Vltor type stock is nice as well. CMMG upper should be here any day now. Oh crap, I need to go get some mags and ammo!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
FYI everybody's info, most of the parts made for ALL AR's are made by about 4 or 5 company's. LPK(lower parts kits) are pretty much all the same. Its when you get into a "build" that you start getting into the specialty company's that manufacture their own. Most parts are built to "mil specs".
People that compete, or specialty units in the military can have them modified to their special needs.
Trigger groups that have zero creep, and break clean are different than the stock models. Anybody wanting to improve their trigger for accuracy, let me know. There are some no-$/low dollar options than can be used.
If it going to be a "utility" AR, like my M4, 16" barrel, collapsible stock, that rests in a velcro strap in the cab of the tractor while working fields, a person having a stock gun should be fine. Want to compete with your rifle, or just make it more accurate, we can work on that.
 

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Dennis, why do you tempt me so???? My new one might have to come and see you for your wisdom.
I put one of the yellow spring kits in my .223 Bushmaster and the trigger doesn't even seem to be the same parts as before. Really suprised that a $14 spring kit could make such a huge difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There is a modification to the hammer that can make it run faster. 0 dollars involved, just a little hacksaw, and file work. ;)
 

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I like the Rock River trigger so much, Ive put them in all mine and my buddies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are the RR triggers adjustable?
 

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Had to put a A2 buffer spring in my M4 tube to tune my ejection. Cases were spitting out towards 1 o'clock. Got it to spit 'em out at 3-4 o'clock now. The reason for that is if the empties go out forward you gun is getting over gassed on the bolt system. Since I plan on reloading (what who me reload a bit hot??) I don't need the bolt carrier group slamming like crazy. Heavier spring slows the BCG down and ejection goes where it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good info.
Another option is to use an adjustable gas block. One can tune the gun to make it run no matter what load is used.
I recently bought one from http://www.makereadyproshop.com/category-s/1824.htm
Its the Kies Adjustable Gas Block.
Same one that Loki is putting on their custom uppers.
 

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That would be an option but running a CMMG piston set up. Suprised that it isn't adjustable, just an on and off setting. But the spring was 4 bucks and solved the problem.
It is amazing how clean and cool piston uppers run. The bolt carrier group doesn't get the least bit warm while shooting and it's clean as a whistle too. Might have to look at one for the .223.
 

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The Adams Arms kit from Brownells has really good reviews, and is supposed to be better than the CCMG kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've shy'd away from the piston kits in the past.
The good reports just keep getting better. Couple of years ago, there were lots of complaints about them. It may have been operator issues. You never know, but recently the folks that build them are doing a bang up job, and I hear lots of good things like Birds report.
 

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It'd be really nice to have an adjustable piston just for the fact that there is such a wide variety of loads for the 6.8 SPC. Then you could tune the gas block from a 85grn to a 140grn load with a simple twist.
 

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Still trying to decide if I want to build a 223 or 6.8 first
 
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